Hard Wax Oil > Applying by Machine - Raincoast Alternatives - Canada's distributor of OSMO Poly-x Hardwax Oil, the natural vegetable oil and wax based benzene free, wood floor finish

Introduction
Preparation
Safety Tips
Tools and Materials
First Coat
Second Coat
Living with Your Finish
Refinishing
Refinishing Osmo UV Cured Finishes
Moving Back In
Trouble Shooting

OSMO Hardwax Oil is a penetrating oil finish bolstered by natural waxes. With this in mind, please remember the following:

It works by fortifying wood fibers, not walling them off.

Treat it more like a stain than a paint.

Apply a very thin layer.

Scrub it in. Do not paint it on.

Never let the finish puddle or build.

If in doubt, put on less.

Use two coats.

OSMO Hardwax Oil must be applied to clean, sanded wood or over itself. Sand off other coatings and vacuum thoroughly.

On most floors, sand to 120 grit. Finer grit hinders absorption. Stop at 100 grit on exceptionally dense wood (reclaimed old-growth, dense tropicals, bamboo).

If you use a filler, chose one listed as "stainable." Latex- and solvent-based fillers are compatible with OSMO Hardwax Oil. We recommend latex for environmental reasons. Because OSMO Hardwax Oil does not fill wood pores, consider using a trowel filler on open-pore woods such as red oak.

Certain tropical hardwoods (like Brazilian Maple) are so dense or laden with oils and resins that they may not be compatible with OSMO Hardwax Oil. Test the finish on a few boards or call for advice.

Apply in two coats. On each coat, 1 liter of OSMO Hardwax Oil covers 200 -250 square feet depending on wood density and final grit.

For ideal application, apply when the room is 60 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Relative humidity should be below 50 percent. A lower temperature or a higher relative humidity may slow drying.

NOTE:
Because it contains wax, Hardwax Oil must not get on surfaces that will later be painted. Mask baseboards and other paintable surfaces when applying finish by machine. (Clean splatter with TSP or equivalent, then wipe with solvent).

Low-odor mineral spirits are among the safest solvents of their type. But in sufficient quantities, they can affect the central nervous system and cause serious health problems. Ensure adequate ventilation during application and while this finish dries. For additional protection, wear a well-fitting respirator with organic-vapor cartridges.

WARNING: Spontaneous Combustion Danger!
Oil-soaked materials (rags, steel wool, sanding dust, etc.) may spontaneously combust.

Immerse oil-soaked materials in water and store in an airtight container OR hang rags so they can air dry until they are hard before discarding. Natural plant oils are exothermic and release heat when drying. A pile of oil soaked rags can catch fire if not properly discarded.

WARNING: Contains Flammable Solvents!
Use only in areas with no open flames or other sources of ignition. No smoking. Provide good ventilation.

Observe all local and federal laws that pertain to the handling and storage of these types of products.

Floor buffer (Low Speed)

Natural-fiber brush head (such as Union Mix Brush)

Red abrasive pad

OSMO Hardwax Oil ( 1L/100 sq ft)

OSMO Brush Cleaner (odor-free mineral spirits) or regular white spirits

Lint-free rags

Dry water bottle with holes in cap

Vacuum

OSMO floor brush (a stubby, 9-inch wide brush horse hair brush designed especially for this finish)

Pole to fit brush

Small pad of red or tan Scotch-Brite

Half-face respirator with organic-vapor cartridges, if needed. (The solvent in OS Hardwax Oil is a petroleum distillate. Although the concentration is very low, a respirator is advisable where ventilation is poor.)

Nitrile gloves. (Not latex)

Dull paint scraper or putty knife to remove drips

For small areas inaccessible to the buffer, if desired:

Random-orbit sander with hook & loop sanding pad or terry cloth cut to fit.
White polishing pad, cut to fit sander.

Hand application is useful for small areas, tight inside corners and places where the buffing machine can't reach.

Machine application is ideal for large areas. Stir OSMO Hardwax Oil and pour a small amount into a dry water bottle.with a few holes in the lid for pouring. Use full strength for machine application.

By hand or with the random-orbit sander, first treat inside corners, stairways and other areas inaccessible with the buffer. To use the hook & loop random-orbit sander, attach the white polishing pad and squirt a small amount of finish directly onto the pad. Avoid splattering finish onto the wall or trim by turning on the sander several inches out into the floor. Work in just enough finish to darken the wood. When the pad runs dry, apply more finish to it.

Fit the Union Mix brush head onto the buffer. Mount the floor brush onto the pole. Dribble a modest amount of finish onto a section of floor. Be conservative until you get a sense of how far the material will cover. Absorption rates vary with different kinds of wood.

Work the buffer over the finish to distribute it evenly and completely. There should be no obvious wet spots. If there are, use the buffer to "move" excess finish into drier areas.

Immediately look over the area just covered. Swirl marks generally indicate that you have used too much finish. Depending on the severity, either use the buffer to move excess to a dry area or lightly brush the boards in the direction of the grain with the pole-mounted floor brush (without adding finish). Sometimes swirl marks can mean that you have used too little finish; parts of the wood are still dry. When the finish is applied at the proper rate, the sheen across the worked area should be consistent. Gage the spread rate of 200 sq ft per liter on a measured portion of flooring to be sure you are not over applying or under applying. The most common mistake is to under apply.

Continue this process over the whole floor. Overlap with the buffer to ensure even, consistent distribution. Hardwax Oil usually becomes tacky in 10 to 15 minutes. If this occurs before you have brushed out excess material, allow the finish to dry and then sand these areas before the second coat is applied.

Store the brush head in an enclosed tub with a quarter-inch of OSMO Brush Cleaner. Or clean thoroughly in Brush Cleaner. An automotive oil catch container works great and even comes with a lid.

The second coat of Hardwax Oil can be applied as soon as the first coat is dry. In normal conditions, this takes 8 to 24 hours. When the finish is dry, rubbing a small area with steel wool or other abrasive will produce white powder, not gummy residue. Use lights to illuminate the job from floor level to check the first coat. Flick off grit and hairs with the paint scraper or putty knife.

Generally, there is no need to sand before the second coat. However, you can never go wrong by lightly abrading the floor between coats. And there are two conditions when sanding is required:

When there are glossy areas or swirl marks because of excess finish or inadequate buffing.

When there is a long delay between the first and second coats. This is often the case on construction projects, where the first coat is applied to protect a new wood floor and then left for weeks or months while construction continues.

If you sand, use a red or tan abrasive pad that matches the size of the buffer head. Just set the pad on the floor and the buffer on the pad and buff. It does not take more than a quick pass. Consider using a second buffer for this process. That allows you to keep the applicator-buffer clear of dirt and debris.

To hand-sand areas inaccessible to the buffer, use the square of red or tan Scotch-Brite. Vacuum thoroughly. Apply the second coat, using the same techniques and approximately the same amount of finish as before.